A Different Kind of Journey: Discovering the Underground

Just outside Kokura Station, a lively dining district unfolds.
Restaurants with bright signs and inviting entrances attract both locals and visitors, naturally drawing them toward the surface-level bustle.

But beneath all that, a different world exists.

Descending into the underground dining district, you step into a space where time seems to stand still.
Dim lighting casts shadows along narrow corridors, and retro-style eateries remain frozen in a past era.
Unlike the vibrant energy above, the underground holds a quieter, almost surreal atmosphere.

In a quiet corner of this underground passage, something unusual catches the eye.

A simple drawing on the wall—
A cat-like, human-like figure, outlined in bold yet unrefined strokes.
It blends into the walls so naturally that most people walk past without a second glance.

It’s always been there, yet few ever truly see it.

“Did you know? They say Seitaro Kuroda painted that.”

It was a casual remark—one that changed how I saw this place.

While enjoying a drink at Hayashida Saketen, a small kakuuchi (standing bar) in Kokura,
I struck up a conversation with a local radio host.

At some point, he leaned over and said:

Did you know? They say Seitaro Kuroda painted that underground mural.
— A Local at Hayashida Saketen

The name immediately resonated.

Seitaro Kuroda is a renowned illustrator, originally from Osaka but now based in Kitakyushu’s Moji district.
His signature style—free-flowing lines, energetic yet minimalistic—has shaped Japanese contemporary art for decades.

If this artwork was truly his, then this wasn’t just a random doodle.
It was an unnoticed piece of art, hiding in plain sight.

And yet, there was no official record of him painting it.
No online references, no plaques, no signatures.
Just whispers among those who knew.

Was it really his work?
Or was it just an urban legend, passed along through quiet conversations in places like this kakuuchi?

Either way, something changed in that moment.
The drawing on the wall was no longer just a drawing.

It had become art.

Does Art Exist If No One Notices?

In quantum mechanics, there’s a concept known as the observer effect.
A particle exists in multiple states until it is observed—at which point, it collapses into a single reality.

Perhaps art functions the same way.

This underground mural had been here for years.
Thousands of people must have passed by it.
But unless someone truly sees it, does it really exist?

If a work of art is placed inside a museum, it is immediately recognized as art.
But if it is drawn on an aging underground wall, it blurs the line between creation and coincidence.

It is only when we observe and question that meaning emerges.
We bring our own perceptions to it—just as I did, when I learned about the possibility of Kuroda’s connection.

The Underground: A Space Beyond Time

There is something about this underground district that feels disconnected from time.

Above ground, restaurants come and go, constantly evolving.
But here, the past lingers.

It is as if this space belongs to no specific era—a parallel world where memories of Showa-era Japan remain intact.

And within this environment, Kuroda’s (possible) artwork doesn’t seem out of place.
It is neither new nor old.
Neither documented nor completely forgotten.
It simply exists, waiting for someone to notice it.

Walking Through the Underground with a New Perspective

Next time you visit Kokura, take a moment to step underground.
Not just to eat or drink, but to observe.

  • What details stand out when you slow down and really look?

  • Is something just an old doodle, or could it be a forgotten piece of art?

  • Does it matter more whether something is truly "art" or whether we believe it to be?

Travel is about encountering the unexpected.
Sometimes, the most memorable discoveries are not the famous landmarks or must-see spots,
but the hidden, overlooked moments that only reveal themselves to those who pause long enough to notice.

And perhaps, this mural—whatever its true origins—
is simply waiting for its next observer.

Conclusion: A Hidden Gem That Only Exists If You See It

Kokura’s underground district is not just a place to eat and drink.
It is a space where time, memory, and perception intertwine.

  • Anyone can visit, but few actually do.

  • Everyone has seen it, yet almost no one remembers it.

  • And for those who take a second look, it becomes something else entirely.

Like quantum mechanics, where observation defines reality,
perhaps travel, too, is about what we choose to see.

📍 Kokura Underground Dining District
🖌 Seitaro Kuroda’s (Possible) Hidden Artwork
🍶 Hayashida Saketen—Where Unexpected Conversations Lead to New Discoveries

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Takakura Shrine: A Hidden Sanctuary of Heritage and Tranquility